Bedding Fabric Guide: Thread Count, Weaves, Silk, Tencel and Down Explained

Bedding labels are full of numbers and words that sound important: 600TC, sateen, yarn-dyed, lyocell, 95% down, 3 kg. Some of them really do change how a bed feels. Others are mostly marketing. This guide explains what each term means in plain language, so you can read a product page and know what you are getting.

If you are deciding between linen and cotton, start with our linen vs cotton vs Egyptian cotton comparison. This guide goes a level deeper. It covers thread count, weaves, silk, Tencel, blends, down and what is actually inside a bedding set.

Egyptian cotton, briefly

"Egyptian cotton" describes cotton grown in Egypt's Nile valley, which has historically produced long, fine fibers. Longer fibers make yarn that is smoother and stronger, with fewer loose ends to pill. In practice, the label tells you about the fiber. How the fabric feels still depends on the thread count, the weave and the finish, which are covered below.

Printed cotton sets, like our Kotori and Kacho designs, carry their pattern on the surface of the fabric. Yarn-dyed and jacquard fabrics build color and pattern into the threads themselves. That difference matters for how a set ages, and it is explained in the weave section.

Thread count: what the number really means

Thread count is the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric, counting both directions. More threads in the same space make a denser fabric. Up to a point, that means smoother and more durable.

• 300 to 400: light, breathable and crisp. A good everyday cotton.
• 500 to 600: the sweet spot for most people. Smooth and substantial, but it still breathes. Our Mingay and Lutetia sets sit here.
• 800 to 1000: denser, heavier and more lustrous. It feels weighty and smooth, and slightly warmer. The Kujaku (800) and Laura (1000) sets are in this range.

The catch: past roughly 1000, very high numbers are usually reached by twisting several thin strands into each thread and counting every strand. The fabric gets heavier, but not better. A well-made 600 often feels nicer than a cheap 1500.

Rule of thumb: if you sleep warm, stay at 600 or below. If you love a heavy, hotel-style bed, look at 800 to 1000.

Weaves and construction: why two cottons feel different

The same cotton can feel completely different depending on how the threads cross.

• Percale is a simple one-over, one-under weave. It is matte, crisp and cool, like a freshly pressed shirt.
• Sateen floats more threads on the surface. It gives a smooth, silky hand and a soft sheen, and it drapes more closely and feels a little warmer.
• Twill produces fine diagonal lines, like denim but much finer. It is durable and soft, and it resists wrinkles well.
• Jacquard is woven on a loom that lifts threads individually, so the pattern is part of the fabric itself. You see it as a subtle, tone-on-tone texture that never washes off. Our Iori set is a cotton-linen jacquard.
• Yarn-dyed means the yarn was colored before weaving. Color runs through every thread, so it looks deeper and resists fading better than fabric dyed after weaving. See Lutetia.
• Embroidered designs are stitched on with thread, so they have real, raised texture. Wash them inside out and iron on the reverse to keep the stitching full.

Linen: the fabric that improves with age

Linen is made from flax fibers, which are hollow and very long. That structure is why linen moves moisture away quickly, dries fast and stays cool to the touch. It is also why new linen can feel slightly crisp: the fibers are stiff at first and relax with washing. Most people find linen at its best after a few months. It is also the defining fabric of a Japandi bedroom.

"French linen" or "European flax" refers to flax grown in the coastal belt of France, Belgium and the Netherlands. That climate tends to produce long, strong fibers. Good linen should feel substantial, with a natural, slightly irregular texture. Those little slubs are part of its character, not flaws.

Try it with the Ruri or Nodoka sets, or start with a single Somi French linen duvet cover.

Cotton-linen blends: the easy middle ground

A blend pairs linen's breathability and texture with cotton's softness. A 50/50 blend feels soft from the first night and creases less than pure linen, but it still breathes well. A 60/40 blend leans slightly softer and smoother. Blends are a good choice if you like the look of linen but not the break-in period. Compare Haruki and Kumo, both 50/50.

Silk: smooth, breathable and kind to hair

Silk is a protein fiber with a very smooth surface. Less friction means less tugging on hair and less creasing on skin overnight. That is the reason silk pillowcases became so popular. Silk is also breathable and regulates temperature well, so it is comfortable in more seasons than people expect.

Silk asks for gentle care. Wash it cold with a pH-neutral or silk detergent, never wring it, and keep it out of the tumble dryer and direct sun. Treated that way, it keeps its luster for years. See our Tsuya and Ayumi silk sets.

Tencel (lyocell): silky feel, easier care

Tencel is a brand name for lyocell, a fiber made from wood pulp dissolved and spun in a closed-loop process that recovers most of its solvent. The result is smooth and fluid with a gentle drape, close to silk in feel. It is excellent at wicking moisture, which makes it one of the best fabrics for people who sleep hot. If heat keeps you up, our 7 bedroom rules for deeper sleep cover room temperature too. It is also easier to care for than silk and can go in a gentle machine cycle. Our Musa set is made from Tencel.

Down: fill, fill weight and loft

Down is the soft cluster under a bird's feathers. It traps air, which is what keeps you warm. Three numbers matter:

• Down percentage. "95% down" means 95% down clusters and 5% small feathers. A higher percentage means a lighter, loftier and warmer product for its weight.
• Fill weight. The total amount of filling, given in grams or kilograms. On a duvet it is the clearest guide to warmth. As a rough guide for a queen: about 2 kg for a warm bedroom, 3 kg for a typical winter, and 4 kg or more for cold rooms.
• Shell. Down needs a tightly woven "downproof" cotton shell so clusters cannot work their way out. A higher thread count shell is smoother and holds the fill better.

Down products are almost always vacuum packed for shipping, so they arrive flat. Shake them out and give them 24 to 48 hours to recover their loft. A faint natural smell after unpacking is normal and fades with airing.

Explore the Hane duvet in 2, 3 or 4 kg, the Luna comforter, and our Fuwa and Sakaki down pillows.

Down-free inserts and seasonal weights

Not everyone wants down. Quilted cotton and polyester comforters are easy to wash at home and work well for anyone who prefers a feather-free bed. Many come in seasonal weights:

• Summer: a thin quilt you can use on its own on warm nights.
• Spring-Autumn: the most versatile weight for most of the year.
• Winter: the thickest and warmest.

The Tokyo Cloud Comforter has a breathable cotton shell. The Soli is an easy-care polyester option.

What is inside a bedding set

• 4-piece set: one duvet cover, one sheet and two pillowcases or shams.
• 6-piece set: the same, plus two extra pillowcases for beds with four pillows.
• 3-piece set: usually a duvet cover and two pillowcases, with no sheet. On single-bed sets it is often a cover, a sheet and one pillowcase. Always check the "What's in the set" section on the product page.
• Family set: two smaller duvet covers instead of one large one, so each sleeper has their own duvet. This is common in Scandinavia and Germany, and it ends the nightly tug of war.
• Flat or fitted: a fitted sheet has elastic corners and stays put. A flat sheet is tucked in and can also be layered under the duvet.
• Insert not included: duvet covers are sold without the duvet itself. Measure your insert, not your bed, and match it to the size chart. US queen and king duvets are larger than international ones.

Quick reference

• Sleep hot? Linen, a cotton-linen blend or Tencel, with cotton at 600TC or below.
• Love a heavy, smooth bed? 800 to 1000TC Egyptian cotton.
• Want gentle on hair and skin? Silk.
• Want easy care? Cotton or a cotton-linen blend, and a polyester insert.
• Always cold? A 3 to 4 kg goose down duvet.

Frequently asked questions

What is a good thread count for sheets?

For most cotton sheets, 300-600 is the sweet spot. Percale tends to feel best around 200-400 and sateen around 300-600. Numbers above about 1000 rarely mean better quality.

Is a higher thread count always better?

No. Very high counts are usually reached by counting several thin twisted strands as one thread. Fiber length, yarn quality and weave matter more than the number on the label.

What is the difference between percale and sateen?

Percale uses a simple one-over, one-under weave, so it feels crisp, matte and cool. Sateen puts more threads on the surface, so it feels smoother, has a soft sheen and sleeps a little warmer.

Is Tencel better than cotton for hot sleepers?

Often, yes. Tencel (lyocell) wicks moisture well and feels cool and silky. Cotton percale is also a good hot-weather choice and usually handles warmer washes better.

How heavy should a down duvet be?

Fill weight is the clearest guide to warmth. For a queen, about 2 kg suits a warm bedroom, 3 kg a typical winter and 4 kg or more a cold room.

Browse the full bedding collection, or go straight to our ready-made bedding sets. Every product page lists its fabric, construction, set contents and care, so you know exactly what arrives. Orders over $149 ship free, and returns are easy within 30 days.